Odes to Joy

Odes to Midtown Atlanta · Track 9 · middle

The Varsity: "What'll Ya Have?"

The Varsity — the legendary 1928 drive-in at the GA-75/85 connector, the chili dogs, the FO (frosted orange), the way "What'll ya have, what'll ya have!" is the unofficial sound of midtown. The world's largest drive-in. Bo with the chili-dog tray.

Lyrics

What'll ya have! What'll ya have!

Frank Gordy saw it.
1928.
A hot dog stand on the corner of Spring Street.
Just a little place.
Before the highway came and split the world open.
Before we all got so hungry.
He heard the future coming.
And it sounded like a stomach rumbling.

WHAT'LL YA HAVE!
Two chili dogs, naked, walking!
A bag of rings!
Give me an FO, a glorious FO!
The whole city screaming for a taste.
The asphalt soft in the July heat.
This beautiful, greasy, perfect disaster.
Hanging the tray on the car window.

Then came 1940.
Moved it right up against the interstate's throat.
Two acres of noise and steam.
The biggest damn drive-in on the planet.
Saw those kids in their little yellow paper hats.
Running between fenders in the twilight.
Carrying treasure on a metal tray.
Smell of onions, man. God. The smell of onions.

WHAT'LL YA HAVE! WHAT'LL YA HAVE!
Two chili dogs, naked, walking!
A bag of rings!
Give me that FO, that frosted orange dream!
The whole city screaming for a taste.
The asphalt soft in the July heat.
This beautiful, greasy, perfect disaster.
Hanging the tray on the car window.

You feel that weight in your hands.
The tray balanced just so.
Steam from the buns fogging the glass.
The cup so cold it hurts your fingers.
For a minute, the whole roaring world goes quiet.
It's just you.
And the best damn meal you'll have all week.
Right here. In the middle of everything.
They sold more Coke than God.

What'll ya have...
What'll ya have...
Yeah. I'll have that.
Pick a song