Odes to People Who Became Brands · Track 3 · middle
Adventures in Good Eating
A printing salesman in the 1930s driving American highways, keeping a private notebook of which roadside diners are safe to eat at, years before anyone reviewed restaurants.
Lyrics
[Intro] (a diner door, cutlery, a notebook opening) Before the cake. Long before the cake. [Verse 1] He sold printing for a living and he drove the whole country, and in nineteen-thirty-something there was no way to see which roadside place would feed you and which roadside place would not — no stars, no guides, no reviews, just whatever you got. So he wrote them down. Every one. Good and bad and worse. Kept a list for his own supper. That's how the whole thing starts. [Chorus] Adventures in Good Eating! He self-published it himself! A list of where to stop between Chicago and the coast! He was America's first food critic and nobody says his name — they say it in the baking aisle, and they mean a yellow box. Duncan Hines. Duncan Hines. He ate the road so you didn't have to guess. [Verse 2] It sold. It sold like nothing. People kept it in the glove, and a sign that said RECOMMENDED BY DUNCAN HINES was worth more than money to a little place in nowhere with a decent piece of pie — he could make a roadside diner and he never took a dime from any place he wrote about, and that's the part they cut, that's the part that isn't in the box, that's the part that's lost. [Chorus] [Bridge] Nineteen forty-nine, he licensed out the name. He was seventy-something. It seemed a reasonable trade. And the mixes made him richer than the guidebooks ever could, and the guidebooks went out of print, and the mixes stayed for good. Now the name means a cake. Just a cake. Nothing more. The man who ate America is a flavour in a store. [Chorus] [Outro] (a notebook closing) He wrote down every meal. Somebody should have written down the man.